Worship In The Midst Of Violence

A Report From A Five Day Visit To Israel and the Palestinian Territories


Philadelphia, PA- Lilian Peters and David Jackman, American Friends Service Committee (AFSC) Quaker Middle East Affairs Representatives, are working in Amman, Jordan exploring opportunities for dialogue between Israelis and the Palestinians. A recent trip turned out to be a tour amid bomb-explosions, shootings, killings, anger and grief. Attached is a diary of their experiences.

AFSC has a long history working for peace and reconciliation in troubled regions of the world, including the Middle East and Northeast Asia. In 1947, the AFSC and the British Friends Service Council received the Nobel Peace Prize on behalf of the Religious Society of Friends for humanitarian service and work for reconciliation during World Wars I and II, and the spirit in which these were carried out.

Quaker work in the Middle East dates back to 1875, with the establishment of a Friends school in Lebanon. Before and during World War II, Quakers in Europe helped Jews and other persecuted minorities escape from areas under Nazi rule. In 1949, because of the experience it gained in helping to resettle hundreds of thousands of refugees and displaced persons following World War II, AFSC was asked by the United Nations to organize similar relief efforts for Palestinian Arab refugees coming into the Gaza Strip. By 1950, AFSC staff began work in Israel on agricultural development projects in Palestinian villages and with internally displaced Palestinians.

For thirty years, the search for regional peace has been at the center of AFSC Middle East International Affairs work. Quaker International Affairs Representatives traveled exhaustively between Israel and neighboring Arab countries, promoting dialogue and understanding.

For more information on international peace building programs in the Middle East, call the American Friends Service Committee at (215) 241-7142 or visit our web site at www.afsc.org.

The American Friends Service Committee is a Quaker organization that includes people of various faiths who are committed to social justice, peace and humanitarian service. Its work is based on the belief in the worth of every person and faith in the power of love to overcome violence and injustice.



The Travel Diary of Lilian Peters and David Jackman,
Quaker Middle East Representatives, based in Amman, Jordan .


"The purpose of our visit to Israel and the Palestinian Territories was to discuss the opportunities for further dialogue between the two societies...unfortunately our trip turned out to be a tour along bomb-explosions, shooting, killing, anger and grief. Below is our diary."


Thursday February 28, 2002

We left Amman on the last day of February, the day that the Israeli army entered two Palestinian refugee camps in a hunt for Palestinian activists. A huge battle followed in which seven people were killed, more were wounded and many houses were destroyed. In return Palestinian gunmen in Bethlehem opened fire on the Israeli settlements Gilo and Har Homa. This was retaliated by the Israeli airforce with a night full of attacks on Bethlehem. The cycle of violence that would be predominant the following days had begun.

Friday March 1, 2002

The people that we met with in Bethlehem on Friday morning looked very tired and stressed, due to yet another sleepless night. Their main fear was that the Israeli army would again enter and occupy Bethlehem, which didn't happen. Because of a call for demonstrations after Friday noon prayers, when the dead of the previous day would be buried, we decided to return to Jerusalem early.

While walking on Jaffa Street, which since the Pizzeria bombing in August 2001 qualifies as the most dangerous street in the world, we were stopped by the Israeli police. The road was blocked and we saw heavily protected soldiers searching a public bus parked at a bus stop. Images of shootings at buses came to our mind, but it seems that it was "only" an unidentified object that an army officer carried away in order to be exploded in a controlled manner. The street was open again and people followed their way, complaining that life in Jerusalem has become almost unbearable.

Israeli peace activists that we met with that afternoon were all extremely pessimistic and had no confidence at all in the capability of the present or any future Israeli government to strike a deal with the Palestinians. In their opinion only external pressure can persuade the Israeli leadership to compromise.

Saturday March 2, 2002

Because of the Jewish Sabbath and the Palestinian weekend we had no meetings and decided to visit our colleagues in the Gaza strip. Crossing the border between Israel and the Gaza Strip never fails to amaze us. Coming from a high tech western-type of society, entering Gaza feels like a transition back in time and place. Despite Gaza's beautiful palm trees and beach, it has become a desperate place covered with the traces of war and occupation. Hundreds of thousands of people are living in refugee camps, often in extreme poverty. Life in the cities and villages is not that much better. The Israeli settlements and army posts dominate the roads and people's movements, cutting off cities and people from each other. The situation was calm but tense. The day before, Israeli settlers killed two young children and the army raided Rafah. That was hardly news since it happens all too often.

The European funded harbor building project was completely ruined, as was President Arafat's helicopter base and, of course, numerous houses and buildings all over the Gaza Strip. Farmland close to the settlements had been abandoned since it is too dangerous to work on it.

Along the road we saw several billboards with the message "better to live with the pain of peace than the agony of war", both in English and Arabic.

Back in Jerusalem we decided to join an Israeli peace demonstration that was scheduled in the front of Israeli Prime Minister Sharon's house. Although we knew that the hours after the end of Sabbath would be dangerous, we decided to walk from our hotel in Arab East-Jerusalem to the demonstration that would start at Zion Square in West Jerusalem. While walking, we suddenly heard quite nearby the dry but heavy sound of a bomb-blast, followed within a few minutes by numerous sirens and people running while talking on their mobile phones. A Palestinian suicide bomber had struck in the Orthodox Jewish neighborhood that we were just passing through. Ten people, including three infants, were killed and more than 30 wounded.

Later, on Jaffa Street in West Jerusalem we had just entered a restaurant when we heard again the loud sound of sirens. As on the day before, an unexploded bomb was detected at Jaffa Street and the police cleared the area. The waiter begged us to leave the restaurant, so he could close the place and leave. Out on the street we had no idea where it would be safe and we decided to go looking for the demonstrators, who had also been asked to leave the scene. We were able to catch up with the demonstration in front of Sharon's residence. It is clear that the 2000 people present were experienced demonstrators, disciplined and clear in their message:

To "End the Occupation."

Sunday March 3, 2002

We woke up with the news that at an army checkpoint in the West Bank, a Palestinian sniper had shot and killed 7 military and 3 civilians and wounded four others. This serious blow to Israeli self-esteem and sense of security was described in the newspapers as: "25 minutes, 25 shots, 10 killed". Apparently the sniper had acted alone, using an old type gun, and disappeared unhurt.

Although we knew that Israel would retaliate for the bombing and sniper attack, we decided to visit our AFSC colleagues in Ramallah and attend a meeting for worship at the Friends School there. As is true for other West Bank towns, there was no direct taxi service available, but we were able to travel to the Kalandia checkpoint and then to walk across the hills and catch a taxi into Ramallah. Once in the town, while sitting together in silence and worship, we heard three bomb-blasts and frequent shooting. We learned later that morning that four people were killed. It was extremely difficult to maintain calm and concentrated under the sound of gunfire and explosions. While drinking coffee afterwards with staff from the Friends School, we asked ourselves: "why are we doing this"? Our answer was: "because we are here and committed to contribute to a peaceful solution to this violent conflict". In the afternoon we returned to Jerusalem, walking over hills to bypass the military checkpoints and being driven over dirt roads full of holes and stones. It is not hard to imagine that sick people and pregnant women encounter serious problems while traveling this way. Soon afterwards traffic between the two cities completely stopped. More attacks took place and more people died, including a Palestinian more people died, including a Palestinian mother picking children up from school, her three children and two children in a car close to hers. The Israeli government announced that evening that Israel would from now on, keep the pressure up in an ongoing attack till "they will beg us to stop". In the mean time diplomatic efforts to stop the violence are taking place, although described by Sharon as "an insult to Israel". In response to an invitation from Egyptian leader Hosni Mubarak, Sharon joked that he was ready to meet but that Arafat "could not make it," referring to Arafat's cotinued confinement to Ramallah.

Monday March 4, 2002

Appointments brought us to Tel Aviv where we enjoyed the sunset at the beach and a delicious meal in a fish restaurant. Life suddenly looked normal again. No continuing stress and empty streets after dark. At least that was what we thought. The next morning we woke up to the news that a Palestinian gunman had emptied his machine gun in a seafood restaurant in Tel Aviv, killing three Israeli's and wounding many more. During the day, a Jewish extremist group threw a bomb at a schoolyard in an Arab village close to Jerusalem, a Palestinian suicide bomber killed himself and an Israeli in a bus and the Israeli airforce raided the cities of Bethlehem, Ramallah, Nablus, Gaza, Rafah and some refugee-camps.

Back in Amman our thoughts and prayers are with our friends and colleagues in Palestine and Israel, who are living in fear and under immense stress. Certainly we will go back because this is the time to make your presence and solidarity known. This is the time that Quaker peace testimony has to be put into action.





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West By Northwest



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